By Terry DukesMy best friend, growing up, was Paula Ann. Yes, yes. Everyone in west Texas, and in east Texas for that matter, has a middle name. First and middle names are tied together like a team of mules and the middle name is always voiced one octave above the first one. The name Ann is two syllables (Aye-un). Paula Ann’s mamma, Annie Mae, was a beautician most days and a good cook every day. She was a large, lovely woman and I could easily tell she was a real beauty before large took over lovely by a hundred pounds. Annie Mae was absolutely, hands down, the BEST biscuit cook I have ever known.

Every time I spent the night in their home, breakfast involved biscuits, so I would imagine every one of their breakfasts involved biscuits — a big, oblong pan of steaming hot, three inch high, browned to perfection, squares of love. Square? Yes, Annie Mae didn’t own a biscuit cutter

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